Wisconsin, Part 2

Sometimes when you find something good, you stick with it. While I am always up for trying a new place, I was glad to return this year to the Paddock Club and find the food there just as spectacular as before. Being a busy time, it can be pretty loud in the restaurant but the food makes up for it. Fresh pasta, amazing seafood and steaks, all prepared flawlessly; it was a stark contrast to the previous night's dinner at the Supper Club. The bustle around us at the Paddock Club made chatting a bit more challenging, but the food was so outstanding that I would be willing to turn up the chatter volume just to delve into another bite of that pasta.

Another treat of going to the races at Elkhart Lake is walking around downtown and seeing the gathering of cars on display. With something for every taste, they range from wildly exotic to antique. We spotted a very new Ferrari 458 Italia, a model which has since been recalled by Ferrari due to a tendency to burst into flames. On the other end of the spectrum was a classic 1960's Citroen, bearing a note describing it's power source as "Rubber Bands." Watching this same little top-heavy gray car go loping around the track the following day, I could see where the owner developed that rubber bands notion. Even at what appeared to be a snail's pace, the little Citroen that could decided it should go exploring and wandered off the track more than once. Just seeing the collection of cars and knowing they were all driven into town and a large portion driven at speed on the track is a memorable experience, especially for a car buff. My own little sliver of heaven was turning a street corner and finding a Lotus Elise parked behind a Morgan Plus 4. Best of all, those weren't the only autos from Morgan and Lotus in an endless sea of offbeat, classic or just memorable wheels.

As we discovered last year, the track food is pretty good. Not to say it's going to win "Gourmet of the Year" awards, but for an event / concession stand food, it's well above average. Last year I noticed how everything was run by local charity groups who seemed to care about selling something truly good, not just typical open the bag & drop in the fryer type items. New this year were the funnel fries. It's basically funnel cake in a basic french-fry shape dusted with powdered sugar. It is as good and artery clogging as it sounds. (Of course I had to try it, funnel cake is a weakness of mine. Fried pat a choux with powdered sugar, what could be wrong with that?)

The next night we went to Siebkens, which is another restaurant located in the heart of Elkhart Lake. It's strong suit is the atmosphere, it's quiet, elegant and a bit of a welcome respite after two days of noise at the track. I think it's one of those places that tries a little too hard and thus misses the mark by a little, but overall my impression was good. I had pan-fried fish and wouldn't hesitate to suggest it to friends, especially for a good quiet dinner in the middle of all the festivities going on around.

After the crowds dwindled and the race fans took off with their toys and tools heading back home, we went back to Elkhart lake for lunch. The difference one day makes is amazing. Parking becomes easy, streets are quiet, it's a typical small town when the out-of-town visitors vanish. Lake Street Cafe was relatively quiet and served up good burgers and excellent fresh made potato chips (another of my guilty pleasures, and on vacation I tend to give into them all.)

This year we also stayed in a different hotel, the Grandstay Suites in Sheboygan. A friend who didn't get to make the trip chose the place and I must say he chose well! It's convenient to Road America, but in walking distance of several restaurants as well as Lake Michigan and a sizable park. The area is very pedestrian and bicyclist friendly, and lots of people were out taking advantage of the pleasantly warm summer weather. According to the local news, the native Wisconsin folks weren't finding the weather so pleasing, but rather "oppressively hot and humid." All I can think there is they need an invitation to certain southern towns during the same seasons. I'm sure as southerner I'd struggle to survive a single Wisconsin winter, so I won't berate them too much over their dislike of the 80 degree temps.

One night we went to Fountain Park Family Restaurant, just a short walk from our hotel. Usually places named "family restaurant" are not on my must-eat-there list, but I went along with our group and it was a good thing too. Everyone that ordered the broasted chicken loved it, and I had one of the best turkey melts I've had anywhere. It wasn't the typical formed turkey parts sliced extra-thin but rather real turkey. Topping of the meal with a piece of tasty red velvet cake truly was the icing on the cake.

While in the area, we made a day of touring around Kohler. We stopped in for lunch at The Horse & Plow, a pub located at the American Club. The history of the area and its presentation is fascinating, its worth walking through the area just for that. Then there's the food at Horse & Plow. It's a bit on the pricey side but to say it is worth it is a phenomenal understatement. All I had was soup and a sandwich, but what a cup of soup and sandwich it was! We started with two kinds of soup, and both were so good I couldn't pick a favorite. The sandwich arrived toasty warm on crisp Parmesan bread with just the right proportions of meat and cheese. No doubt about it, Horse & Plow will be on my "must do" list for the trip next year. For a little desert we also stopped in at Cravere. It's the only place I know of that displays their chocolates like fine jewelry and they're almost too pretty to eat. It didn't stop us from diving into a dose of chocolate bliss with a slice of chocolate layer cake. Just like the rest of Kohler, its not cheap but it's worth the price.

One last stop before heading home included Henning's Cheese Shop. We were a little short on time so we didn't get to take the factory tour, but the selection of cheeses there was nothing short of fantastic. The row of samples was an effective sales tool, I can't say I'd have otherwise bought a block of Mediteranian Sunset Cheese. (Every last bite of it was delicious.) After stopping there, we were really glad we brought the bigger cooler, because we loaded it full of cheeses galore!

This year we found new places and returned to some previous favorites. Either way, going to Elkhart Lake for the races is an experience I wouldn't trade for anything. It still gets some quizzical looks from friends when I tell them I'm going to Wisconsin to vintage car races, but until you experience the area, the food, the people, and of course the spectacular collection of cars, they just can't grasp the appeal. Get ready Wisconsin, I'll be back in 2011 for more of all the goodness the area offers.

Sensory Overload, Part 2

The food at Road America was horrible, really. Don't go to the track and eat. The people you see eating? They're desperate individuals clamoring for any semi-edible substance.

Well, ok... not really. In actuality, it's good. Really, really good. I just don't want the word to get out because the lines will get long.

The numerous food stands are run by local civic organizations, so it's in their interest to make the food worth eating and they succeed. In that whole sensory overload department, it fills in the gaps where the track ends. The smell of burgers, chicken and brats cooking over massive grills fills the air near every stand. The smoke curling up into the air provides a guide to the source of that delicious scent. Step around to the counter and the menus range from fresh cheese curds, which I ordered with apparently enough southern accent to entertain the locals manning one stand, to burgers to something called a "Walking Taco." Anything with that strange of a name I had to try. One Doritos bag filled with crushed chips, some sort of meat concoction, cheese, and salsa later I will admit, it was money well spent. Fresh roasted corn dipped in melted butter, homemade ice cream cookie sandwiches, grilled brats; it was all the makings of county fair food, with a bit less of that "we'll deep fry anything" approach that dominates in the south.

Outside of the track, we went to Elkhart Lake (remember, population just over 1000) for some amazingly good meals. The Paddock Club was probably one of my favorites with their fresh made pasta, fantastic beef fillet and Panna Cotta so good I ate every last bite and might have licked the plate were I not with a group of friends, and in public. Another evening, we had dinner at the Back Porch, literally on the restaurant's back porch overlooking Elkhart Lake. The sunset view was beautiful and while we tried cheese plates most everywhere this one was probably my favorite. I'm guessing that the wait staff heard "what kind of cheese is this one again?" few too many times so they got creative on the plating with a handy paper diagram (see photo.)
I'm also admittedly no connoisseur in the adult beverage department, but the Grape Martini at Seibkins as well as the Key Lime Martini at Back Porch were excellent ways to finish the fun day.

After about four days of cheese at virtually every meal, my body made it very clear that I was going to have to either slow down chowing down on the cheese or toss someone else the keys to the golf cart and walk around the track if I had any hopes of curtailing the artery clogging that was occurring at an alarming rate. Our group opted for a view of Lake Michigan at Seabird in Sheboygan after the races ended Sunday evening. I have to admit, it was the one place I was a bit concerned might not be good given the lack of patrons at the time, but it wasn't bad at all. The Phyllo Triangles were good as well as the roast half chicken. I think after four days of exceptional cuisine, I might have even been a bit burned out and in need of a no-frills meal or just some my own cooking.

During our last day there, we found a little local place called Restoration Gardens near Kohler. As much as I enjoyed the previous restaurants, this definitely was for the locals, which is my kind of place. There I had one of the best cinnamon rolls and a fantastic grilled apple & cheese sandwich. Yes, more cheese, but I had taken the previous day off from my cheese quest. I also sampled Hank's Root Beer which I will look for on restaurant menus; it was some of the best root beer I've ever tasted. It pairs surprisingly well with cinnamon rolls too. Who'd have thought it? (Those who know me well know I really don't drink sodas, and for the rare occasion I do, it's usually root beer. Thus my approval of Hank's is extra high praise.)

We also made a stop in at Craviere, a Kohler area chocolatier that displays chocolates in cases reminiscent of a fine jewelry shop. Prices tend to match the display, but one taste and the price really becomes "who cares?" The dark mountain toffees were a fine example of their chocolate without breaking the bank and the rare facets were just as delicious as they were elegant to see. It was just another stop that brought on more sensory overload, but still in a good way.

We also found something strange about Sheboygan. On Monday, the town shuts down. When we noticed the lack of traffic and the grand total of about four restaurants open, it made us wonder what was happening. Our waitress at local upscale pizzeria Il Ritrovo that evening confirmed that the streets are rolled up on Mondays. Speaking of Il Ritrovo, they serve wood-fired oven pizzas topped with some peculiar combinations. Seeing firsthand my ham & egg pizza topped with a fried egg struck me as a bit odd at first, but being my adventurous self, I couldn't resist. It was worth it too. Just don't ask for Pepperoni, they do not serve something that utterly common.

I can't complain about a single meal for the whole trip which rarely happens. I guess the breakfast at the hotel was a bit lacking in choices, but it was the standard complimentary continental breakfast fare. There were a couple of nights that it took a bit past our reservation time to get seated. One restaurant sent its full-bellied patrons up a long, steep staircase just to get out of the place. So if I really wanted to find fault, I am sure I could dig in and think of some fine details that were overlooked somewhere. Sometimes though, I think why bother to tarnish the memory of such good eats? I think these will stay as just that, good food in a good little town that welcomes its guests with full plates of food.

Cheese and Vintage Cars

My husband has always been a car nut, and unlike many other car guys, his enthusiasm hasn't been hampered by an anti-car wife. It's quite the opposite. Being married to him only encouraged my own interest in cars.

Being the car guy he is, my husband has been a faithful subscriber to Road & Track magazine for around 20 years or so. This means every time we've moved the collection of magazines has been migrated to its next home. Considering that every month the number expands, I don't relish the next move. Though I do think it might be a strong motivator for hiring a moving company.

For years we've read about the vintage races in Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin at Road America. The Road & Track Concourse d'Elegance showing off all the classic Jaguar E-types, the old Astons, the Morgans... it sounds like a little slice of heaven on earth for the gas powered engine obsessed. After reading about this event for so long, this spring we finally connected with friends who've been going to the races for a number of years and they invited us along. How could we say no?

Thankfully we didn't say no and just a few weeks ago made the trip northward to Wisconsin. After a short overnight stay in Illinois on the way at a typical interstate-side "bland box" hotel we met up with our friends and headed toward the land of cheese and cars. On the way I couldn't decide which appealed more, the cars or the copious amounts of cheese I intended to consume. Whenever it came up conversation that we were traveling to Wisconsin for vacation, I was met with these puzzled looks almost always followed by "What's in Wisconsin?" After about the seventh time I had an answer ready to go. "Vintage car races, along with lots of cheese and cooler weather." That seemed to satisfy even the beach-bound crowd.

After seeing the size of Elkhart Lake, I found out why our group had chosen a hotel in nearby Sheboygan. Elkhart Lake, population 1021, has a limited number of hotels that are very much catered to the weekend race crowd that comes in a few times a year. They're limited in quantity and for the most part priced from slightly above average to prices that would cover the cost of an economy car for a family of four.

Our hotel was a Sleep Inn, and it's the first time I have stayed in one of that chain. The rooms were typical of a basic room, with furniture that could use a bit of updating. Overall though, they were pretty spacious and had a vast expanse of desk space so it was easy to drop off the stuff we'd collect over the trip and leave it for organizing and attempting to cram into the car at the last minute.

My first morning in the hotel, I fumbled into the bathroom, half-awake. I crinkled my nose and coughed at overpowering smell of cigarette smoke. I know my husband pretty well and I felt pretty safe assuming that he hadn't slipped into the bathroom for a quick few puffs (he definitely does not smoke.) The front desk attendant explained to me that the hotel has an air system that circulates the air throughout the entire hotel on a set cycle. It was the "entire hotel" part that posed the problem; ten rooms on the top floor were smoking rooms, and despite our room being on the bottom floor, it still permeated the bathroom as though an employee took their smoke break in there. Supposedly I should have been thankful that our room wasn't above the pool, the chlorine smell was considerably potent in the 2nd floor rooms. Either way, I think its pretty inexcusable with a modern hotel and should be on the hotel owner's priority list of problem areas to fix post haste. Beyond this faux paux, the hotel had an adequate continental breakfast and an extraordinarily friendly staff that rivaled southern hotels in hospitality with their sincere willingness to help.

Next stop we're off to the races and I'll elaborate on my attempts to "OC" or over-cheese at dinner every night.

Not what I'd call a "folly" at all

About two weeks ago we made the short trip to Memphis for a little shopping and a celebration dinner with friends. After an afternoon of roaming around Wild Oats Marketplace, Fresh Market and Penzey's, staring and sometimes drooling over all the food options dinnertime couldn't arrive soon enough.

For a number of years I've heard that Folks Folly in Memphis is an excellent steakhouse. I'd heard a few mixed reviews of the atmosphere, but looking back at the sources for those reviews I think I can disregard those as coming from those uninitiated into the foodie world. Despite that, I had high hopes for a delicious meal as I'd heard many good things recently about the food from more reliable sources. Situated in what was once a simple home that has been clearly expanded on numerous times, the restaurant has a relaxed, yet clearly upscale setting. Some areas are divided into smaller rooms thus reducing the noisy background that can occur in open floor-plan restaurants. The toile walls can be a bit nauseating, but soon that vision fades because the food arrives.

The food. I think a summary of "Outstanding" would be an understatement. Everything I tasted that evening was superb, nothing failed to meet my expectations, even set as high as they were. For those who like cheese, the Blue Cheese Mountain will provide a full serving of the day's dairy requirements. The Garlic Parmesan bread as well as all other appetizers we sampled were delicious and in generous portions, so there was plenty to share. Moving to the main course (who eats a salad at a place like this) I had a steak that ranks on par with only one other I've found, and that's at Ruth's Chris. For years I've used the filet at Ruth's as my standard by which all other steaks are judged, and finally found one that ranks in quality and taste. Despite being a steakhouse in name, I would gladly return and sample other dishes outside the beef family. The potato dishes were also in portions that encourage sharing, and were equally good. Desert choices were classic southern, including my always preferred creme brulee, which of course by now it's obvious I'll say, "Yes it was really really good." I only wish I'd saved more room to sample more deserts!

I have to say Mr. Folk and the generations that followed have brought a great taste to the table that didn't cause the restaurant to live up to it's namesake of "Folly." One visit made it clear to me why it's ranked both locally as the #1 steakhouse in Memphis many times over, as well as nationally known and respected. No doubt about it, I'll be back.

Imagine a Restaurant

After my recommended restaurant experience in Little Rock turned out disappointing for dinner, I got another suggestion from another reliable source. This one paid off quite nicely. (Thanks!) The name of the place alone hinted that it would be something worth noting and it followed through.

Since I was in Little Rock, I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to get some of the "good stuff" available at Fresh Market. Living in a smaller town has it's benefits but the lack of ingredient options sometimes does limit what fun foods can come from my kitchen. So when I'm in a larger city with a selection of either specialty foods or the larger gourmet grocery stores I like to make at least a quick stop in for a few items. While the internet nets me a plethora of sources, I just can't beat sometimes browsing around the store for new goodies.

So I wouldn't want to buy every interesting gourmet delicacy in The Fresh Market, we first stopped by Imagine a Restaurant, located in the same shopping complex. It was a really tasty stop for lunch. The club sandwich my husband ordered was great, and the Ham, Brie and Apple sandwich I ate was delicious. I chose the sweet potato chips and he chose the regular potato chips, both made fresh in-house and both excellent. After making some fresh potato chips at home this weekend, I can't imagine why more restaurants skip out on this simple but tasty dish. I'll definitely put this on the list of restaurants I hope to visit again sometime this year.

After I mentioned Whole Hog Cafe in my previous post, a bit of interesting news has brought it back to my attention. In our local newspaper this week, it was announced that Whole Hog Cafe will be opening in my town, probably around late March. I won't have to travel to Little Rock or Memphis just to sample this new-to-me BBQ, so while they're taking away the travel it does mean I can have as much as I want, whenever I like. I think I will enjoy the convenience.

Greetings for 2008

It's about time I finally ate or went somewhere noteworthy! The holidays didn't provide me with a lot of blog fodder, but a short trip to a small town in Tennessee visiting relatives did give me one cozy little restaurant to mention. The Elms Restaurant in Selmer, Tennessee has that southern style service that's missing in many places today. The waitresses know the patrons, they call them and everyone "honey" and sincerely care if the diners are happy. Between the warm sincere service and some simple, tasty food it's a welcome stop for lunch or dinner. Of note in my book were the fried cheese sticks since they were battered instead of breaded, which is my personal favorite.

Last week my husband and I were in Little Rock for one night, and after making a pass by Whole Hog Cafe and feeling too much sympathy for the employees to go in at 20 minutes to closing and order dinner, we ended up at Julie's. The restaurant had come with good recommendations from reliable sources. While I think it had the potential to be a good restaurant, it failed to deliver. The chef must have been quite paranoid about under cooking the shrimp as despite the good flavors I can imagine the bottom of my running shoes would be less rubbery in texture. The other items we had were merely ok at best, and the baked potato was baked and past its prime long before we arrived.

So for desert, my husband & I skipped out on the offerings at Julie's and opted for Krispy Kreme. I know it's just a donut chain but in this case it's worth mentioning. Yes, the donuts are good. Really good. It's the service that gets my attention. At this location the service has been fantastic every single time. While I haven't been in that often, it's been consistently good each time, good enough for it to stand out against the crowd of mediocrity.

I have plenty of trips planned for this year, including a Caribbean cruise I just booked this week. As I like to call it, "blog fodder" will be plentiful this year I hope. As always, I've resolved to take a little more time to enjoy my hobby of cooking this year, but I'm sure there will be plenty of opportunities for roads and eats along the way too.

Cheese Anyone?

I've been enjoying another of my culinary related Christmas gifts lately, a 3 month subscription to the Cheese of the Month club from Bedford Cheese Shop.

The first of the three months selection arrived recently. They sent three cheeses, selected according to Bedford's website "based on seasonality, quality, ripeness and for the manner in which they complement one another." All three were very good, one of which I will definitely add to my regular cheese purchases. Here's a little bit about each of the three:

Brescianella Stagionata - This one was described as "for those who love some stinky ooze." That description, combined with the definitely pungent aroma of the cheese left my husband a strong reason to not just avoid tasting it, but to leave the kitchen altogether. He and a friend claim their olfactory senses haven't lead them wrong thus far, and they'll keep trusting their evaluation of the situation at hand. In small portions the scent is less noticeable, and this is truly one of the creamiest cheeses I've ever eaten. Despite some who won't override their sense of smell, anyone I've shared this with liked it.

Colston Bassett Stilton - The prettiest cheese of the bunch, I've been wanting to try a good English Stilton to compare to the basic blue cheeses I can get at the local grocery store. The resemblance ends with appearance. Maybe that's too harsh... but this does have a far superior taste over any blue cheese I've had in the past. It's great with crackers.

Raschera - My favorite of the three, this semi-firm cheese has a good flavor that goes well with anything. It melts nicely, I topped a pita with turkey and the cheese one day for lunch. I've already found that I can get this one via Amazon if not locally. Yea!

In my travels, I'm finding that more and more of the tasty eats can come to you. The internet certainly makes it possible to expand your palate with a minimal effort. Not to worry though, I'll remain always ready for a trip to find good food straight from the source.

PS Thanks to my hubby for the great gift!